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Hanoi-ing or Hamazing??

We have heard from so many travellers about their love for Hanoi. Our initial visit lasted 4 days and we were not convinced – what were others experiencing that we were not!? We were determined to discover the LOVE and so we wandered and ate and day-tripped and relaxed as best we could. After our next 3-day trip back to Hanoi and a little reflection and distance, we are beginning to have a better understanding and appreciation for this chaotic, loud, busy, crowded, dirty, old, confusing city (the old quarter anyway).

We arrived during the lead-up to Tet and people kept telling us that the city would be “shutting down”, as everyone heads home for the holiday. Though some restaurants and shops did shut for a day or two, there were many that remained open and we found it still VERY active and easy to find food and things to do. Many businesses, hotels, restaurants and tours did have a surcharge for a few days around the holidays. (We had booked a trip to Ha Long Bay months before, not realizing at the time what a good decision that was.)

There was a market street designated for all things Tet (Lunar New Year) just down the road from our hotel. We were amazed on our return that this street was just like any other, once all the decorations were removed.
The fireworks were a little hard to make out through the smokey-haze they created, but we enjoyed the atmosphere with Jeff and Amanda from Queensland, Australia.
The few employees who had to work through Tet, worked long hours and could not go home for the holiday. When we arrived back from viewing the fireworks, we admired the worship table that they had set up in front of the hotel.

We had a couple of daily routines that helped us manage the chaos of Hanoi.

1. We walked down to and then around the small lake at least once a day. There were little gardens around it and a walking path that was free of motorcycles! We were happy to have a little respite from dodging the scooters every time we stepped outside. Sometimes we even went around twice!

There were a lot of little cultural and picture- worthy stops as we made our way around the lake – a temple, a pagoda, some statues and lovely gardens. We saw many people dressed up to take family photos lakeside.

Pagoda in the middle of the lake
Temple

2. A Vietnamese coffee was another favourite activity. Most coffee shops have a second or third floor so we usually got as far above street level as we could.

A few of our coffee views in Hanoi

3. We searched out and ate at a variety of places. Even eating is an adventure in Hanoi! We tried to eat a variety of food in a number of restaurants or street food spots.

Eating at the sidewalk restaurants is cheaper and often very good! We had 1 negative experience but that was more about a grumpy restaurant owner who seemed quite unhappy to be working through Tet and a questionable selection of meat in the dishes we weren’t sure we even ordered!
Many of these photos are from a walking food tour we took in the old quarter. It was great to have someone show us what to order and where to go.

4. We walked and walked and explored!!!

There was one circumstance when we went just a little too far over a long bridge with a narrow shoulder and a low railing, where we just couldn’t stomach going over again so we booked a Grab Car (like Uber), and back to our hotel we went.

It just kept going and going and going…

One day we decided we should check out the bigger lake that was a little longer walk. Along the way, we discovered quite a few things.

Changing of the guards at the Ho Chi Minh mosoleum
St. Joseph’s Cathedral
Train Street
Hoa Lo Prison (called Hanoi Hilton during the Vietnam War) was built by the French Colonialists.

So,… Hanoi-ing or Hamazing? In the end, I am really glad we stayed there for a longer stay so that we could really explore. My feeling towards the city improved the longer I stayed. Big cities aren’t attracting me as much these days in general but, as far as a big city goes, Hanoi is super interesting to explore and people-watch and immerse in.

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